Gallant Edge German Shepherds
Breeders - Trainers & Resource Centre
DEALING WITH COMMON BEHAVIOR ISSUES
How To Take On The Pack Leader Roll
How To Take On The Pack Leader Roll
I get a lot of questions about inappropriate behaviors in dogs such as jumping, nipping, chewing, barking, growling, aggressive behaviors, pulling on walks and I find myself repeatedly teaching people to relate better with their dogs and explaining how to take on a more authoritative, dog friendly, Pack Leader Roll. This approach is quite effective and more direct than just luring a dog with treats and praise alone. I tend to blend both these approaches with my dogs.
MANY BEHAVIORS START UNCORRECTED IN PUPPIES
Most of these behaviors start when the pup is little. Things like Jumping and Nipping and Barking, Chewing, Pulling are very common problems with puppies and adult german shepherds. I know that your puppy does not mean any harm when doing this however it becomes a very big problem as an adult. They do this because it is highly ingrained in them. It's how they play in the dog world and alert and defend the pack from strangers. However, these behaviors are not appropriate around humans. As you know german shepherds are large scary dogs to many people and when doing this to strangers, they think the dog is going to attack them (and sometimes they do) so it really has to be nipped in the butt and fast. If left unchecked at the very least the dog could knock over children, scare people and they can become very aggressive and bite children, adults and other animals. Much of this can be prevented if the dog owner knows how to relate to their dog and teaches them appropriate behaviors.
CHANGE STARTS WITH YOU
To stop inappropriate behaviors and to encourage appropriate ones, it really takes education and consistency on your part and adopting an authoritative pack leader roll. In the end how your dog behaves really depends on how well YOU are educated, how well YOU work with him and how consistent YOU are. Don't allow inappropriate behaviors under any circumstances. All dogs are a little difficult to teach something new at first, especially if your pack leader status is not clear. You can turn this behavior around very fast, sometimes in as little as a day, if you know what to do, are consistent, work with your dog and correct inappropriate behaviors immediately and appropriately as a Pack Leader does.
Most German Shepherds and other dogs also need to learn to be socialized. Dogs naturally want to bark and, nip and jump these are ingrained in every dog. It's similar to people who are born with a sin nature, some people have never been taught appropriate behavior. It may have got them through as a child but as an adult it doesn't work too well - We all know people like that. The same principle applies with your dog.. Your job is to curb those natural behaviors in your dog. Most any behavior can be modified. It really depends on how educated and consistent the owner is.
Its kinda like raising a child. If you let them grow up without rules, boundaries and consequences or if you only act 10, 20, or 30% of the time, you are not sending a strong message about your boundaries and they learn nothing and they get out of control. You want your dog to obey your rules so he behaves better around you and in public which means being a pack leader, setting clear boundaries, and being consistent. It really is about mutual respect and understanding.. It is clear that right now your dog is not obeying you and this will require you take on a more authoritative roll around your dog.
GET ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
Some behaviors need special attention, or understanding, so I recommend that in addition to this article, you read the articles in the Help section of my website about becoming a pack leader as well as any other articles relating to your dog's current behavior. It will help you to learn what you may be doing to cause this particular behavior, and to help you to understand better where your dog is coming from. Below are some very useful tools and assistance with becoming a pack leader:
If your dog is exhibiting "fear" or urinating when afraid or excited, its especially important to read the articles related to "fear" on my help page. Puppies go through a fear imprint stage from 9-16 weeks and could have been affected during this time. You'll need to understand how to better deal with "fear"as well as learn desensitization and reconditioning techniques. Dogs experiencing "separation anxiety" also need special attention and an article related to "separation anxiety" can also be found on my help page.
UNDERSTAND YOUR DOG
The first thing you need to know is that dogs are at their happiest when they are in their submissive state. You're dog can't submit when he is in fight , flight, prey or avoid drive. Dogs can switch drives to pack drive and its your job to help him do that. In the wild the pack leader sets the boundaries and the dogs eagerly comply. They know it is in their best interests to do so - their life depends on it. A pack leader immediately and appropriately, corrects inappropriate behavior and ensures that the dogs needs are met. If your dog is not submitting it usually starts with your ability to understand your dog. Education is the key.
Dogs live in the present. They live in the NOW. They don't worry like we do about the future and they don't live in the past (they learn from it). So they don't know what they are in trouble for today when they get heck for something they did yesterday or an hour ago. If they are asked to come and they comply only to get into trouble they are afraid to come the next time because when they come they get into trouble. This is one of many examples of how humans are inconsistent and unpredictable with their dogs.
BE A PACK LEADER
A pack leader is not someone that is mean to a dog, gets angry at the dog, yells at the dog, is inconsistent or unpredictable in behaviors. Dogs don't listen to that behavior they defend themselves from it or run away from it. Dogs also sense anxiety, fear, and frustration. A pack leader is confident and relaxed and projects that energy. A pack Leader has the dog's best interests in mind, provides sound structure is consistent and can be trusted. Doing this teaches your dog how you will react too. The more he can anticipate your sound reaction the more he will want to please you. In the wild dogs naturally listen to their pack leader. So become one worth listening to.
A PACK LEADER CONSIDERS THE WHOLE DOG
Make changes to incorporate all the needs of your dog, A dog with rules and boundaries, structure, consistency and exercise, are a happy dogs and less likely to attack other people or animals. It is also important to ensure that your dog has received proper vaccines, is dewormed, and free of fleas and parasites. Learn to recognize medical issues when they arise in order to prevent and treat ailments. Be sure to give your dog regular vet check ups and feed your dog a quality premium dog food appropriate for his age to ensure he is getting the proper nutrients he needs.
MANY BEHAVIORS START UNCORRECTED IN PUPPIES
Most of these behaviors start when the pup is little. Things like Jumping and Nipping and Barking, Chewing, Pulling are very common problems with puppies and adult german shepherds. I know that your puppy does not mean any harm when doing this however it becomes a very big problem as an adult. They do this because it is highly ingrained in them. It's how they play in the dog world and alert and defend the pack from strangers. However, these behaviors are not appropriate around humans. As you know german shepherds are large scary dogs to many people and when doing this to strangers, they think the dog is going to attack them (and sometimes they do) so it really has to be nipped in the butt and fast. If left unchecked at the very least the dog could knock over children, scare people and they can become very aggressive and bite children, adults and other animals. Much of this can be prevented if the dog owner knows how to relate to their dog and teaches them appropriate behaviors.
CHANGE STARTS WITH YOU
To stop inappropriate behaviors and to encourage appropriate ones, it really takes education and consistency on your part and adopting an authoritative pack leader roll. In the end how your dog behaves really depends on how well YOU are educated, how well YOU work with him and how consistent YOU are. Don't allow inappropriate behaviors under any circumstances. All dogs are a little difficult to teach something new at first, especially if your pack leader status is not clear. You can turn this behavior around very fast, sometimes in as little as a day, if you know what to do, are consistent, work with your dog and correct inappropriate behaviors immediately and appropriately as a Pack Leader does.
Most German Shepherds and other dogs also need to learn to be socialized. Dogs naturally want to bark and, nip and jump these are ingrained in every dog. It's similar to people who are born with a sin nature, some people have never been taught appropriate behavior. It may have got them through as a child but as an adult it doesn't work too well - We all know people like that. The same principle applies with your dog.. Your job is to curb those natural behaviors in your dog. Most any behavior can be modified. It really depends on how educated and consistent the owner is.
Its kinda like raising a child. If you let them grow up without rules, boundaries and consequences or if you only act 10, 20, or 30% of the time, you are not sending a strong message about your boundaries and they learn nothing and they get out of control. You want your dog to obey your rules so he behaves better around you and in public which means being a pack leader, setting clear boundaries, and being consistent. It really is about mutual respect and understanding.. It is clear that right now your dog is not obeying you and this will require you take on a more authoritative roll around your dog.
GET ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
Some behaviors need special attention, or understanding, so I recommend that in addition to this article, you read the articles in the Help section of my website about becoming a pack leader as well as any other articles relating to your dog's current behavior. It will help you to learn what you may be doing to cause this particular behavior, and to help you to understand better where your dog is coming from. Below are some very useful tools and assistance with becoming a pack leader:
If your dog is exhibiting "fear" or urinating when afraid or excited, its especially important to read the articles related to "fear" on my help page. Puppies go through a fear imprint stage from 9-16 weeks and could have been affected during this time. You'll need to understand how to better deal with "fear"as well as learn desensitization and reconditioning techniques. Dogs experiencing "separation anxiety" also need special attention and an article related to "separation anxiety" can also be found on my help page.
UNDERSTAND YOUR DOG
The first thing you need to know is that dogs are at their happiest when they are in their submissive state. You're dog can't submit when he is in fight , flight, prey or avoid drive. Dogs can switch drives to pack drive and its your job to help him do that. In the wild the pack leader sets the boundaries and the dogs eagerly comply. They know it is in their best interests to do so - their life depends on it. A pack leader immediately and appropriately, corrects inappropriate behavior and ensures that the dogs needs are met. If your dog is not submitting it usually starts with your ability to understand your dog. Education is the key.
Dogs live in the present. They live in the NOW. They don't worry like we do about the future and they don't live in the past (they learn from it). So they don't know what they are in trouble for today when they get heck for something they did yesterday or an hour ago. If they are asked to come and they comply only to get into trouble they are afraid to come the next time because when they come they get into trouble. This is one of many examples of how humans are inconsistent and unpredictable with their dogs.
BE A PACK LEADER
A pack leader is not someone that is mean to a dog, gets angry at the dog, yells at the dog, is inconsistent or unpredictable in behaviors. Dogs don't listen to that behavior they defend themselves from it or run away from it. Dogs also sense anxiety, fear, and frustration. A pack leader is confident and relaxed and projects that energy. A pack Leader has the dog's best interests in mind, provides sound structure is consistent and can be trusted. Doing this teaches your dog how you will react too. The more he can anticipate your sound reaction the more he will want to please you. In the wild dogs naturally listen to their pack leader. So become one worth listening to.
A PACK LEADER CONSIDERS THE WHOLE DOG
Make changes to incorporate all the needs of your dog, A dog with rules and boundaries, structure, consistency and exercise, are a happy dogs and less likely to attack other people or animals. It is also important to ensure that your dog has received proper vaccines, is dewormed, and free of fleas and parasites. Learn to recognize medical issues when they arise in order to prevent and treat ailments. Be sure to give your dog regular vet check ups and feed your dog a quality premium dog food appropriate for his age to ensure he is getting the proper nutrients he needs.
BE A PACK LEADER AND CONSISTENTLY WALK YOUR DOG
German Shepherds are high energy dogs. They need an outlet for all that energy. Walking is a must. A minimum of 45 minutes before their morning meal. The longer the walk the better followed with some retrieve exercises with a ball. In the Wild dogs usually migrate each day looking for food walking mimics what they would naturally do in the wild. It not only gives them physical activity it also helps them to stay mentally balanced. Dogs who get daily walking are generally much happier dogs, and are usually much calmer at home. Walking on a regular basis also increases your bond with your dog.
BE A PACK LEADER - TEACH YOUR DOG TO HEEL BY YOUR SIDE.
Teaching a dog to heel is not as hard as most people think and is a good exercise in submission. The proper way to walk a dog is to have him walk on your left with a loose lead in a calm relaxed state of mind. Not behind, not pulling (you're the leader not him), not trying to chase other dogs, not barking at people or animals.
A very fast pack leader style to teach your dog to heel. Start by keeping the leash very short. Just long enough to keep him at your side (as your dog submits, you can loosen the lead). Consider using a Halti and or a muzzle, for difficult dogs. A Halti allows you to move his head when you walk, keeping his attention in the right place. Walk tall, shoulders back and walk like you need to go somewhere (until the dog learns to stay by your side). Most importantly relax. If you are tense your dog will be tense. The goal is to walk in a confident relaxed state of mind to get your dog to walk in a calm submissive state along with you.
A dog that is pulling, sniffing, going the other way, barking at people, is aggressive etc. needs to be corrected.
CORRECTING YOUR DOG
These corrections are designed to take the dog's attention off what he is doing to put his attention on you and submit to you. At first the dog may not want to submit and you will need to show the dog over and over that you have taken back the pack leader roll. A dog whose been king of the castle may not want to give up that roll easily. The more he is corrected the more he will learn to pay attention and submit to you and the less he will do the undesired behavior. Your dog won't submit if he is afraid. The key is to get him to relax and to be relaxed yourself. The goal is to get to a calm submissive state. This can be tricky at first but you'll get the hang of it.
When correcting, I never hurt my dogs, I never yell At my dogs or scare my dogs! I teach by example. Corrections must only occur the moment your dog acts inappropriately. Not 10 seconds, 1 minute or 10 minutes later, an hour later and so on. You can prevent pulling or aggressiveness by correcting just as he turns his head to pull or to become aggressive. You can prevent barking by correcting the moment he starts to bark. Consistency is the key. Your dog will learn fast.
CORRECTING ON A LEAD WHILE WALKING YOUR DOG
Correct the moment your dog runs ahead, pulls, sniffs, barks, etc. When consistent they work very well. These corrections help owners stay in the NOW and to correct in a calm assertive manner and should be used in the same order, escalating your response to your dog's lack of submission.
1. Lead Correction - Pull the lead towards you with a short fast jerk. Don't hurt the dog, don't yank so hard to create a neck injury. It is only to get his attention off what he is doing and on to you. Then relax your arm keeping it by your pant pocket. (if you want your dog to relax, you must relax! If you want your dog to be confident in You, be confident yourself!). The goal is to put your dog in a relaxed state of mind. He won't go there if you're not there. Put your thumb in your pocket to get used to where it should be. Hold the access lead in your right hand. Repeat this correction every time your dog runs ahead, barks, slows to sniff, etc.. Correct the moment the dog acts inappropriately.
2. Adopt a verbal correction. I correct with a fast Shhh in an authoritative manner while quickly pulling the lead towards me. Used in a consistent manner my dog's understand this is a correction and submit. I use this correction off and on lead.
3. If the dog remains stubborn on lead, and continues the inappropriate behaviors I gently touch the dog with my foot. While using the Verbal Correction Shh and pulling on the lead. If your dog is on your left, use your right foot, bring it behind your left leg to touch the dog. I do not kick the dog or hurt the dog, I simply touch him to get his attention off of what he is doing and on to me. The goal is to shift from one drive to the other and get his attention on me in order to place him in the relaxed submissive state. Repeat this correction a few times when continuing the inappropriate behavior.
4. If your dog still remains difficult and refuses to submit, I mimic what the pack leader does (biting his neck) by gently grabbing the lose skin on the back of the dogs neck to mimic a gentle bite. The goal is to get your dog's attention, to submit and to get into a relaxed submissive state of mind. The goal is not to hurt your dog.
5. I teach my dogs to sit when I want their full attention and if stubborn I often stop until I have his complete attention and submission and then I proceed.
Remember, at first this will be new to your dog, but with consistency, he will catch on.
CORRECTING OFF LEAD
1. If the dog is doing something inappropriate I say Ah Ah Ah, (doesn't sound like it will work but it does when used consistently, and consistent follow through with further corrections if not submitted to).
2. If the dog does not listen, I escalate my correction. I stand in front of the dog, I look him in the eye, square off to him and say Shhh while placing my hand out in a stop signal towards the dog. At times I also gently move the dog to assist him to know what I want. I never yell at my dogs! I teach by example.
3. If your dog still remains difficult and refuses to submit, I mimic what the pack leader does (biting his neck) by gently grabbing the lose skin on the back of the dogs neck to mimic a gentle bite. The goal is not to hurt your dog or get upset yourself. The goal is to get the dog's attention, to submit and to get into a relaxed submissive state of mind. It is very important for you to remain calm to set the example, to get your dog 's attention on you, and to get your dog to a calm submissive state.
4. For very stubborn dogs who refuse to submit, the last resort is placing your dog on his back in order that he submit to you.
5. Some dogs are very difficult and aggressive and even on their backs they may not submit. The corrections 1-4 would need to be repeated while the dog is on his back. For very aggressive dogs, in order to stay safe, consider using a muzzle or obtaining the assistance of a professional behaviorist.
These corrections are to be used in the same order, escalating your response to your dog's lack of submission. When consistent they work very well.
PRAISE YOUR DOG
Equally important is Praise. When your dog is doing what you want. Say Good Heel! Good Sit!.etc. This gives your dog a word picture he can relate to desired behavior. Pet your dog. Hug Him. Give him a treat when he is doing what you want. If he knows you like it he'll continue the behavior. You must be consistent! It is very important to remember to praise your dog for appropriate behaviors.
BE A PACK LEADER - FIND WAYS TO ENJOY YOUR DOG AND BURN OFF ENERGY
RETRIEVE RATHER THAN TUG OF WAR
Tug of War brings out the dog's aggressiveness. Its a good idea not to play this with your dog until you have a handle on him. Walk to a field and get your dog to retrieve a ball, frisbee or other fun article. It allows your dog to feel free and to get exercise and stretch his legs and burn off excess energy. It also helps you and your dog to spend quality time together and improves your bond with your dog.. All that running is good for your dog and he will love you for it.
BIKE OR ROLLERBLADE WITH YOUR DOG
Consider an attachment for your bike so you can run your dog without him pulling you over. My dogs love bike rides. It burns off excess energy and they love the quality time. I love it too, because I can go as fast as them. I also enjoy roller blading with my dogs. In this way, I can go faster, more geared to the dog's pace. Be sure to start slowly by first socializing your dog around bikes and roller blades. At first the dog may not be sure what to do and may tend to cross your path or pull in other directions. To avoid injuries to your dog and yourself; and to build confidence next to the bike or roller blades, start with short slow outings and work your way to longer and faster outings. Be sure you wear the appropriate safety equipment in the event of a fall. Puppies under one year should not go on distance runs to prevent hip and elbow issues in later life. Keep the pup's outings short and at their own pace.
BE A GOOD PACK LEADER - SOCIALIZE YOUR DOG
It is imperative that you learn to socialize your pup. Until a dog has been in a specific situation he does not always respond the way we want. For that reason the dog needs to be exposed to many different things on a regular basis and socialized with other people, animals and dogs. Be sure to teach your dog to pay attention to you on walks and to avoid dogs and distractions. But also teach your dog proper behavior around other dogs and people, socialize him with your neighbors and friends and their dogs. Your dog will love the quality time with you.
Start with not allowing your pup to react to other people and dogs on walks. Walk in parks, busy streets, crowded areas, the more places you practice this the better behaved your dog will be. Once you have that, start socializing one on one with other dogs and people more and more.
Have your dog sit or lay at your side (on Lead) and practice having friends walk in front of you and around you. Practice having them walk dogs around him also. Correct your dog immediately as above for inappropriate behavior. The second your dog turns his head to act inappropriately such as barking, going into prey drive, or growling, correct him don't let him follow through with the behavior. If you allow him to get into fight drive it will be harder to get him under control.
If your dog reacts appropriately, and allows people or dogs to be near, Let your friends come up to him slowly. No Eye contact at first, hand out. Let him sniff their hand and look at them. Proper dog introductions are first nose, then Eyes. If he reacts, either you or someone has invaded his space too quickly and the people need to correct their behavior. If he reacts to a proper introduction, correct him as above. Consider going more slowly with him. If he accepts them, praise him.
Practice in many situations. Someone at the door. Socialize your dog with children, with bikes, skateboards, busy streets, large crowds, around loud machinery, lawn mowers, blow dryers, blenders, to give him confidence on how to handle the situation. You want your dog to learn not to react when children are running, people walk by, dogs are near, around loud noises. Practicing these scenarios teaches your dog not to react to distractions and creates a more stable confident dog.
BE A PACK LEADER WHEN YOU FEED YOUR DOG.
Do not leave food out all day for your dog. Do not feed your dog until after his walk in the morning so he feels like he earned it as he would in the wild. A pack leader in the wild usually eats first and gets the choice parts of the meal. So consider eating first. When done Ask your dog to sit first. Put the bowl down and say something like "Eat Your Food" to give your dog a word picture of mealtime. Leave the food out for 15 minutes. Then remove the bowl. This teaches your dog that meal time is meal time. If he has to miss a few meals, he'll learn to eat when the bowl goes down. Young dogs like to have you close by. Be sure that plenty of water is always available for your dog
PRACTICE LEAVE IT COMMAND (Teaches Self Control. Teaches not to be aggressive around food also)
Practice a "Leave It" command by placing food on the floor. Hold his collar as he is lying down. When he goes for the food say "Leave It" and hold him back by his collar. When he moves back say "Good Leave It" and give him the treat. Once he has that, teach him to look at you first before he gets the treat. Make noise, a clicking sound with your mouth to get his attention at first. After a few repetitions, your dog will catch on. Next teach your dog to wait after he has looked at you until you say "OK (release word) "Go Get It" Practice daily until your dog waits for your release word. I've taught all my dogs this and meal time is a piece of cake...Uh Kibble.... This translates into leaving things he shouldn't get into around the house, leaving things on walks, etc.
BE A PACK LEADER WHEN YOUR DOG NIPS
Dogs teeth should never touch human skin. If your dog nips correct your dog immediately as above with a pack leader authoritative Shh, give the dog direct eye contact, square off to him in a dominant stance until he shows signs of submission.
If playing and the dog nips my arms or hand or whatever, I Yelp in a real loud high pitched voice to let the dog know that human skin is delicate and to mimic the sound dogs make when they get hurt. This usually surprises the dog and gets his attention and he stops - thats the goal. I also grab the dog's muzzle and say "No biting" or I immediately use the above correction to get him to submit. It's important to act immediately and to correct immediately. Any play should be terminated at that point. I usually direct my dog to a chew toy providing something appropriate to chew on. Your dog will soon learn that if he wants to play with you he should not nip.
BE A PACK LEADER WHEN YOUR DOG CHEWS INAPPROPRIATE THINGS
German Shepherds need to chew. Especially when teething. When chewing on things he shouldn't, provide your dog with an appropriate alternative behavior.
If your dog has something in his mouth that he shouldn't I say Ah Ah Ah. Then I ask him to "GIVE" and gently take it out of his mouth. Praise him for giving it to you, then give your dog an appropriate chew toy and say something like "Here's your Toy". Never correct a dog for "giving" something to you. Praise him for it. You can also teach your dog to "leave it" (Outlined above)
RECOMMENDED CHEW TOYS
Bully's
I give my dogs Bully's (Bull Penis) available at a pet stores. They come in foot long lengths, are 100 % natural. Last a long time, are clean and my dogs love them. I never run out. They are great for teething and adult shepherds love them too. I also keep them in the dog's crate and bring them on trips.
Large Bones
My dogs also love the Large Roll Over Bones. They should be large enough to allow your dog to get his mouth inside the end. They are filled with Rollover and they keep the dog's busy and content for a long time. Even when they've gotten all the roll over out they still like the bone.
Kongs.
Kongs are available everywhere and are made of a hard rubber material. When thrown they bounce all over so they also make a great retrieve article. My dogs really love them when I fill them with something yummy inside, like treats, or rollover.
BE A PACK LEADER WHEN YOUR DOG JUMPS UP ON YOU
Jumping up should never be allowed under any circumstances. It is cute when pups are small but when bigger humans and children consider this a threat and sometimes it is and could cause little children to fear dogs for life. Dogs should be taught to sit for attention. Giving a dog attention, (looking at the dog, talking to to the dog, petting the dog) when jumping up on you only tells the dog that his behavior is OK and that you approve of his jumping. The best thing to do when a Dog jumps is to not give the dog what he is looking for - Attention, but at the same time a difficult dog insistent on jumping needs to be corrected.
My manner of correction seems to cut through the difficulties and speaks to the dog in his own language. It does take repetition and success depends on how well my dog accepts my pack leader status and how consistent I am.
When jumping I say "OFF". If my dog does not submit I correct using the Shhh as above in an authoritative tone, standing confident, squared off to the dog, giving direct eye contact with my hand out forming a stop signal, so the dog knows its a correction. I then ask my dog to sit. My dogs are accustomed to my correction and pay attention and sit when I do this. Once the dog is sitting (showing submission) and I have the dog's attention, I then praise the dog for sitting. Only when the dog has submitted appropriately, and is sitting should he get the attention he is looking for.
BE A PACK LEADER AND TRAIN YOUR DOG
Consider taking your dog to manners and obedience classes. You'll be glad you did. Training your dog makes life more enjoyable for you and your dog. Classes are very valuable for not only training your dog, but also for socializing around strangers and other dogs and for answering any questions you may have. These classes are advertised for dogs and they are, but really they are for owners to learn how to better relate to their dogs and to assist them to train basic commands in a dog's own language. For owners who enjoy the training process, dogs who complete these can go on to more training in Rally Obedience, Obedience, Agility, Flyball, Tracking, Therapy Work, and more. My dogs miss it when not being trained. Not only do they really love to learn but they really love to please and do well with the one on one quality time, car rides and visiting with other people and dogs. It really helps your dog become well adjusted and makes them feel like part of the family and that really is our goal.
CONCLUSION
A dog with rules and boundaries, structure, consistency and exercise and training are a happy well adjusted dogs and less likely to attack other people or animals. Following the above teaches your dog how you will react too. The more your can anticipate your reaction the more he will want to please you. Most importantly when you can relate to your dog and your dog respects you, it improves the bond between you and makes life more enjoyable for everyone.
RECOMMENDATIONS
Get yourself some good books that assist you to understand how a dog thinks, how to train your dog and how to become a pack leader you will be glad you did. Most importantly, you and your dog will benefit with a long rewarding life together.
If you have any further questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to let me know or check out the info and help sections of my website, there you will find more assistance. Please email us with your success stories
German Shepherds are high energy dogs. They need an outlet for all that energy. Walking is a must. A minimum of 45 minutes before their morning meal. The longer the walk the better followed with some retrieve exercises with a ball. In the Wild dogs usually migrate each day looking for food walking mimics what they would naturally do in the wild. It not only gives them physical activity it also helps them to stay mentally balanced. Dogs who get daily walking are generally much happier dogs, and are usually much calmer at home. Walking on a regular basis also increases your bond with your dog.
BE A PACK LEADER - TEACH YOUR DOG TO HEEL BY YOUR SIDE.
Teaching a dog to heel is not as hard as most people think and is a good exercise in submission. The proper way to walk a dog is to have him walk on your left with a loose lead in a calm relaxed state of mind. Not behind, not pulling (you're the leader not him), not trying to chase other dogs, not barking at people or animals.
A very fast pack leader style to teach your dog to heel. Start by keeping the leash very short. Just long enough to keep him at your side (as your dog submits, you can loosen the lead). Consider using a Halti and or a muzzle, for difficult dogs. A Halti allows you to move his head when you walk, keeping his attention in the right place. Walk tall, shoulders back and walk like you need to go somewhere (until the dog learns to stay by your side). Most importantly relax. If you are tense your dog will be tense. The goal is to walk in a confident relaxed state of mind to get your dog to walk in a calm submissive state along with you.
A dog that is pulling, sniffing, going the other way, barking at people, is aggressive etc. needs to be corrected.
CORRECTING YOUR DOG
These corrections are designed to take the dog's attention off what he is doing to put his attention on you and submit to you. At first the dog may not want to submit and you will need to show the dog over and over that you have taken back the pack leader roll. A dog whose been king of the castle may not want to give up that roll easily. The more he is corrected the more he will learn to pay attention and submit to you and the less he will do the undesired behavior. Your dog won't submit if he is afraid. The key is to get him to relax and to be relaxed yourself. The goal is to get to a calm submissive state. This can be tricky at first but you'll get the hang of it.
When correcting, I never hurt my dogs, I never yell At my dogs or scare my dogs! I teach by example. Corrections must only occur the moment your dog acts inappropriately. Not 10 seconds, 1 minute or 10 minutes later, an hour later and so on. You can prevent pulling or aggressiveness by correcting just as he turns his head to pull or to become aggressive. You can prevent barking by correcting the moment he starts to bark. Consistency is the key. Your dog will learn fast.
CORRECTING ON A LEAD WHILE WALKING YOUR DOG
Correct the moment your dog runs ahead, pulls, sniffs, barks, etc. When consistent they work very well. These corrections help owners stay in the NOW and to correct in a calm assertive manner and should be used in the same order, escalating your response to your dog's lack of submission.
1. Lead Correction - Pull the lead towards you with a short fast jerk. Don't hurt the dog, don't yank so hard to create a neck injury. It is only to get his attention off what he is doing and on to you. Then relax your arm keeping it by your pant pocket. (if you want your dog to relax, you must relax! If you want your dog to be confident in You, be confident yourself!). The goal is to put your dog in a relaxed state of mind. He won't go there if you're not there. Put your thumb in your pocket to get used to where it should be. Hold the access lead in your right hand. Repeat this correction every time your dog runs ahead, barks, slows to sniff, etc.. Correct the moment the dog acts inappropriately.
2. Adopt a verbal correction. I correct with a fast Shhh in an authoritative manner while quickly pulling the lead towards me. Used in a consistent manner my dog's understand this is a correction and submit. I use this correction off and on lead.
3. If the dog remains stubborn on lead, and continues the inappropriate behaviors I gently touch the dog with my foot. While using the Verbal Correction Shh and pulling on the lead. If your dog is on your left, use your right foot, bring it behind your left leg to touch the dog. I do not kick the dog or hurt the dog, I simply touch him to get his attention off of what he is doing and on to me. The goal is to shift from one drive to the other and get his attention on me in order to place him in the relaxed submissive state. Repeat this correction a few times when continuing the inappropriate behavior.
4. If your dog still remains difficult and refuses to submit, I mimic what the pack leader does (biting his neck) by gently grabbing the lose skin on the back of the dogs neck to mimic a gentle bite. The goal is to get your dog's attention, to submit and to get into a relaxed submissive state of mind. The goal is not to hurt your dog.
5. I teach my dogs to sit when I want their full attention and if stubborn I often stop until I have his complete attention and submission and then I proceed.
Remember, at first this will be new to your dog, but with consistency, he will catch on.
CORRECTING OFF LEAD
1. If the dog is doing something inappropriate I say Ah Ah Ah, (doesn't sound like it will work but it does when used consistently, and consistent follow through with further corrections if not submitted to).
2. If the dog does not listen, I escalate my correction. I stand in front of the dog, I look him in the eye, square off to him and say Shhh while placing my hand out in a stop signal towards the dog. At times I also gently move the dog to assist him to know what I want. I never yell at my dogs! I teach by example.
3. If your dog still remains difficult and refuses to submit, I mimic what the pack leader does (biting his neck) by gently grabbing the lose skin on the back of the dogs neck to mimic a gentle bite. The goal is not to hurt your dog or get upset yourself. The goal is to get the dog's attention, to submit and to get into a relaxed submissive state of mind. It is very important for you to remain calm to set the example, to get your dog 's attention on you, and to get your dog to a calm submissive state.
4. For very stubborn dogs who refuse to submit, the last resort is placing your dog on his back in order that he submit to you.
5. Some dogs are very difficult and aggressive and even on their backs they may not submit. The corrections 1-4 would need to be repeated while the dog is on his back. For very aggressive dogs, in order to stay safe, consider using a muzzle or obtaining the assistance of a professional behaviorist.
These corrections are to be used in the same order, escalating your response to your dog's lack of submission. When consistent they work very well.
PRAISE YOUR DOG
Equally important is Praise. When your dog is doing what you want. Say Good Heel! Good Sit!.etc. This gives your dog a word picture he can relate to desired behavior. Pet your dog. Hug Him. Give him a treat when he is doing what you want. If he knows you like it he'll continue the behavior. You must be consistent! It is very important to remember to praise your dog for appropriate behaviors.
BE A PACK LEADER - FIND WAYS TO ENJOY YOUR DOG AND BURN OFF ENERGY
RETRIEVE RATHER THAN TUG OF WAR
Tug of War brings out the dog's aggressiveness. Its a good idea not to play this with your dog until you have a handle on him. Walk to a field and get your dog to retrieve a ball, frisbee or other fun article. It allows your dog to feel free and to get exercise and stretch his legs and burn off excess energy. It also helps you and your dog to spend quality time together and improves your bond with your dog.. All that running is good for your dog and he will love you for it.
BIKE OR ROLLERBLADE WITH YOUR DOG
Consider an attachment for your bike so you can run your dog without him pulling you over. My dogs love bike rides. It burns off excess energy and they love the quality time. I love it too, because I can go as fast as them. I also enjoy roller blading with my dogs. In this way, I can go faster, more geared to the dog's pace. Be sure to start slowly by first socializing your dog around bikes and roller blades. At first the dog may not be sure what to do and may tend to cross your path or pull in other directions. To avoid injuries to your dog and yourself; and to build confidence next to the bike or roller blades, start with short slow outings and work your way to longer and faster outings. Be sure you wear the appropriate safety equipment in the event of a fall. Puppies under one year should not go on distance runs to prevent hip and elbow issues in later life. Keep the pup's outings short and at their own pace.
BE A GOOD PACK LEADER - SOCIALIZE YOUR DOG
It is imperative that you learn to socialize your pup. Until a dog has been in a specific situation he does not always respond the way we want. For that reason the dog needs to be exposed to many different things on a regular basis and socialized with other people, animals and dogs. Be sure to teach your dog to pay attention to you on walks and to avoid dogs and distractions. But also teach your dog proper behavior around other dogs and people, socialize him with your neighbors and friends and their dogs. Your dog will love the quality time with you.
Start with not allowing your pup to react to other people and dogs on walks. Walk in parks, busy streets, crowded areas, the more places you practice this the better behaved your dog will be. Once you have that, start socializing one on one with other dogs and people more and more.
Have your dog sit or lay at your side (on Lead) and practice having friends walk in front of you and around you. Practice having them walk dogs around him also. Correct your dog immediately as above for inappropriate behavior. The second your dog turns his head to act inappropriately such as barking, going into prey drive, or growling, correct him don't let him follow through with the behavior. If you allow him to get into fight drive it will be harder to get him under control.
If your dog reacts appropriately, and allows people or dogs to be near, Let your friends come up to him slowly. No Eye contact at first, hand out. Let him sniff their hand and look at them. Proper dog introductions are first nose, then Eyes. If he reacts, either you or someone has invaded his space too quickly and the people need to correct their behavior. If he reacts to a proper introduction, correct him as above. Consider going more slowly with him. If he accepts them, praise him.
Practice in many situations. Someone at the door. Socialize your dog with children, with bikes, skateboards, busy streets, large crowds, around loud machinery, lawn mowers, blow dryers, blenders, to give him confidence on how to handle the situation. You want your dog to learn not to react when children are running, people walk by, dogs are near, around loud noises. Practicing these scenarios teaches your dog not to react to distractions and creates a more stable confident dog.
BE A PACK LEADER WHEN YOU FEED YOUR DOG.
Do not leave food out all day for your dog. Do not feed your dog until after his walk in the morning so he feels like he earned it as he would in the wild. A pack leader in the wild usually eats first and gets the choice parts of the meal. So consider eating first. When done Ask your dog to sit first. Put the bowl down and say something like "Eat Your Food" to give your dog a word picture of mealtime. Leave the food out for 15 minutes. Then remove the bowl. This teaches your dog that meal time is meal time. If he has to miss a few meals, he'll learn to eat when the bowl goes down. Young dogs like to have you close by. Be sure that plenty of water is always available for your dog
PRACTICE LEAVE IT COMMAND (Teaches Self Control. Teaches not to be aggressive around food also)
Practice a "Leave It" command by placing food on the floor. Hold his collar as he is lying down. When he goes for the food say "Leave It" and hold him back by his collar. When he moves back say "Good Leave It" and give him the treat. Once he has that, teach him to look at you first before he gets the treat. Make noise, a clicking sound with your mouth to get his attention at first. After a few repetitions, your dog will catch on. Next teach your dog to wait after he has looked at you until you say "OK (release word) "Go Get It" Practice daily until your dog waits for your release word. I've taught all my dogs this and meal time is a piece of cake...Uh Kibble.... This translates into leaving things he shouldn't get into around the house, leaving things on walks, etc.
BE A PACK LEADER WHEN YOUR DOG NIPS
Dogs teeth should never touch human skin. If your dog nips correct your dog immediately as above with a pack leader authoritative Shh, give the dog direct eye contact, square off to him in a dominant stance until he shows signs of submission.
If playing and the dog nips my arms or hand or whatever, I Yelp in a real loud high pitched voice to let the dog know that human skin is delicate and to mimic the sound dogs make when they get hurt. This usually surprises the dog and gets his attention and he stops - thats the goal. I also grab the dog's muzzle and say "No biting" or I immediately use the above correction to get him to submit. It's important to act immediately and to correct immediately. Any play should be terminated at that point. I usually direct my dog to a chew toy providing something appropriate to chew on. Your dog will soon learn that if he wants to play with you he should not nip.
BE A PACK LEADER WHEN YOUR DOG CHEWS INAPPROPRIATE THINGS
German Shepherds need to chew. Especially when teething. When chewing on things he shouldn't, provide your dog with an appropriate alternative behavior.
If your dog has something in his mouth that he shouldn't I say Ah Ah Ah. Then I ask him to "GIVE" and gently take it out of his mouth. Praise him for giving it to you, then give your dog an appropriate chew toy and say something like "Here's your Toy". Never correct a dog for "giving" something to you. Praise him for it. You can also teach your dog to "leave it" (Outlined above)
RECOMMENDED CHEW TOYS
Bully's
I give my dogs Bully's (Bull Penis) available at a pet stores. They come in foot long lengths, are 100 % natural. Last a long time, are clean and my dogs love them. I never run out. They are great for teething and adult shepherds love them too. I also keep them in the dog's crate and bring them on trips.
Large Bones
My dogs also love the Large Roll Over Bones. They should be large enough to allow your dog to get his mouth inside the end. They are filled with Rollover and they keep the dog's busy and content for a long time. Even when they've gotten all the roll over out they still like the bone.
Kongs.
Kongs are available everywhere and are made of a hard rubber material. When thrown they bounce all over so they also make a great retrieve article. My dogs really love them when I fill them with something yummy inside, like treats, or rollover.
BE A PACK LEADER WHEN YOUR DOG JUMPS UP ON YOU
Jumping up should never be allowed under any circumstances. It is cute when pups are small but when bigger humans and children consider this a threat and sometimes it is and could cause little children to fear dogs for life. Dogs should be taught to sit for attention. Giving a dog attention, (looking at the dog, talking to to the dog, petting the dog) when jumping up on you only tells the dog that his behavior is OK and that you approve of his jumping. The best thing to do when a Dog jumps is to not give the dog what he is looking for - Attention, but at the same time a difficult dog insistent on jumping needs to be corrected.
My manner of correction seems to cut through the difficulties and speaks to the dog in his own language. It does take repetition and success depends on how well my dog accepts my pack leader status and how consistent I am.
When jumping I say "OFF". If my dog does not submit I correct using the Shhh as above in an authoritative tone, standing confident, squared off to the dog, giving direct eye contact with my hand out forming a stop signal, so the dog knows its a correction. I then ask my dog to sit. My dogs are accustomed to my correction and pay attention and sit when I do this. Once the dog is sitting (showing submission) and I have the dog's attention, I then praise the dog for sitting. Only when the dog has submitted appropriately, and is sitting should he get the attention he is looking for.
BE A PACK LEADER AND TRAIN YOUR DOG
Consider taking your dog to manners and obedience classes. You'll be glad you did. Training your dog makes life more enjoyable for you and your dog. Classes are very valuable for not only training your dog, but also for socializing around strangers and other dogs and for answering any questions you may have. These classes are advertised for dogs and they are, but really they are for owners to learn how to better relate to their dogs and to assist them to train basic commands in a dog's own language. For owners who enjoy the training process, dogs who complete these can go on to more training in Rally Obedience, Obedience, Agility, Flyball, Tracking, Therapy Work, and more. My dogs miss it when not being trained. Not only do they really love to learn but they really love to please and do well with the one on one quality time, car rides and visiting with other people and dogs. It really helps your dog become well adjusted and makes them feel like part of the family and that really is our goal.
CONCLUSION
A dog with rules and boundaries, structure, consistency and exercise and training are a happy well adjusted dogs and less likely to attack other people or animals. Following the above teaches your dog how you will react too. The more your can anticipate your reaction the more he will want to please you. Most importantly when you can relate to your dog and your dog respects you, it improves the bond between you and makes life more enjoyable for everyone.
RECOMMENDATIONS
Get yourself some good books that assist you to understand how a dog thinks, how to train your dog and how to become a pack leader you will be glad you did. Most importantly, you and your dog will benefit with a long rewarding life together.
If you have any further questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to let me know or check out the info and help sections of my website, there you will find more assistance. Please email us with your success stories
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